Quito, Ecuador (Population 2.2 million)

I arrived in Quito, Ecuador with little background knowledge of the city and no exact plan.  Sometimes, part of the adventure is figuring out a city on your own.  I had heard from other travelers in Colombia and Otavalo, Ecuador (3 hours north of Quito) contradicting reports regarding the safety of the city and the friendliness of the people. I have found though, with anyplace (or anything or anyone for that matter) it is best to see for yourself to make a judgement.  So I arrived by bus to Quito with only a slight idea as to where I was going to stay and no expectations or plans beyond that.

Quito is the capital of Ecuador, but unlike most Latin American cities, it is not the primate city due to the fact that the coastal city of Guayaquil has the largest population in the nation.  In my experience, I found Quito to be a wonderful city and the people extremely friendly and helpful.  I did have my first difficult encounter on my trip thus far in Quito, but it was with a crazy French guy who (I'm still somewhat confused due to his broken English) was threatening to fight me because apparently he thought I was the Australian who had kept him up by partying too late at the hostel.  Needless to say, I diffused the conflict and moved out the same dorm room as this weirdo to avoid him throwing my toothbrush in the toilet, or worse, for revenge.  Here is a website dedicated to dealing with crazy French people living in exile in Ecuador because they are wanted for murder…(Kidding).  Back to Quito, of course there are robberies and crime as in any big city, but as a general rule as in anywhere, find out where to go and where to avoid, and don't test those boundaries.  A common theme among foreigners who are robbed in Latin America is that they were walking by themselves at night, and most often had been drinking.  "Use a good judgement" a friend of mine in Chattanooga always says.

The old town or Historical Center (Centro Historico) in Quito is restored and clean, and the area is full of cathedrals, museums, plazas, and colonial architecture.  The following website provides an interactive map of the old town with images of the sites you will see walking the town (http://ecuadorexplorer.com/html/quito_centro_map.htm).  The old town is listed as a UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) World Heritage Site, meaning it is protected and funded as a special place of interest by the United Nations.  For more information about UNESCO and World Heritage Sites see their website that tells more about the organization and provides a list of sites by nation (http://whc.unesco.org/en/list).  There are currently 962 sites in the world (cultural, natural, and mixed properties), 21 of which are in the United States.  Italy tops the list with 47 sites.

I spent a little more than a week in and around Quito and was able to visit the equator for the first time, which was a great experience.  In general most traveler's, myself included, stay in the newer area of the city called Mariscal.  I was surprised to find so many foreigners both visiting and living in Quito and the large number of restaurants and shops that cater to both wealthy Ecuadorians and western people.  (The term "western" is typically used to describe: The Western world, also known as the West and the Occident [from Latin: occidens "sunset, West"; as contrasted with the Orient], is a term referring to different nations depending on the context. There is no agreed upon definition about what all these nations have in common[1] apart from having a significant population of European descent and being heavily influenced by Europe.)

I think the high rate of western residence is due in large part to the relative peace and governmental stability compared to most of central America (including Mexico), neighboring Colombia, and nearby Venezuela.  That being said, Ecuador did have a political coup ("coup" or coup d'etat is defined as: {French: “stroke of state”} Sudden overthrow, often violent, of an existing government by a group of conspirators. Coups are most common in countries with unstable governments and in countries with little experience of successful democracy.) in 2000, but the country has not experienced the full brunt of civil war and narco-terrorism that have plagued nearby nations. Also, the coastal, mountain, and jungle areas have a favorable climate to nations south of Ecuador, due to its proximity to the equator. 

I actually fell prey to watching the NFL one Sunday with a group of Americans living in the area, but sometimes it's nice to surround yourself with the comforts of home when on the road.  I made up for it though the next day by watching a national soccer match between Ecuador and Uruguay with a group of Ecuadorians (much more fun by the way).  The South American nations are currently competing for a spot in the 2014 World Cup in Brazil which adds a lot of excitement to the games.  You can track the qualifying results on the following website (http://www.fifa.com/worldcup/preliminaries/southamerica/standings/index.html).  The top 4 teams qualify (Brazil automatically in for hosting the event) and Ecuador is currently in 3rd.

Plaza de la Independencia

 La Virgen de Quito

Toy Store in Quito (Yes, those are fake rats for sale hanging under the T-Rex if you can't make them out)--Also, check out the jerseys behind the Rat Man, the most popular professional soccer team Barcelona who play out of  the city of Guayaquil

 Iglesia y Covento de San Francisco-built in 1536, the oldest in Quito

La Iglesia de San Francisco (church)-All hand carved and guilded with real gold, Below: statues of San Francisco (Saint Francis) and Jesus

 Presidential Palace and guards

 

Basilica del Voto Nacional

Pope John Paul statue in front of La Basilica--"The Pilgrim Pope" visited Quito in 1985 and blessed the Cathedral

Head binding or skull manipulation was common among the ancient Andean peoples.  Scientists believe the process was done to create an ethnic identity or a sign of social class.  The device would be applied to the skull of an infant for six months starting at one month old.  Interesting images on Wikipedia:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Artificial_cranial_deformation

Metallurgy in South America dates to 2000 BC.  These gold artifacts would have been used for religious ceremonies or possibly burial rites.  The abundance of gold and silver in the Andes was a main draw for Spanish exploration and eventual colonization in the region.

Quite possibly the ugliest mannequin I've ever seen

Otavalo, Ecuador

On my first border crossing of this journey I traveled 12 hours from Cali, Colombia to Otavalo, Ecuador.  Long bus rides and waiting in line at immigration offices makes for a pretty miserable experience, but flying was too expensive and although you feel your life may end each time your bus driver tries to pass other vehicles on blind mountain turns, it is a good way to see the countryside.  Otavalo is best known for its artisan market which takes place everyday, the largest of which takes place on Saturday.  Otavala is located in the Imbabura province which gets its name from the massive Imbabura Volcano that can be seen from the city.  The surrounding areas contain multiple volcanoes and natural lakes, which in addition to the market, makes Otavalo a popular visit for Ecuadorian and foreign tourists.

The indigenous "Otavalos" {indigenous definition: 1. originating or occurring naturally (in a country, region, etc.); native 2. innate (to); inherent (in)} are known for their traditional lifestyle seen in their dress, hairstyles, food, music, and outdoor markets.  While riding outside of Otavalo I saw what I thought were a series of wildfires, but according to a taxi driver it was actually an offering to the rain gods of the Otavalos to help end a drought they were currently experiencing.  The following website will show you some of the traditional clothing of Otavalos (http://www.lonelyplanet.com/ecuador/northern-highlands/otavalo/images).  Unlike most indigenous people in South America, or worldwide for that matter, Otavalos have a relatively high standard of living.  Most native groups in Ecuador, including Otavalos, are pushing for more rights to guarantee the protection and prosperity of their culture as seen by the website offered by this organization:  (http://indigenouspeoplesissues.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=5054:the-indigenous-peoples-of-ecuador-are-in-mobilization-for-the-defense-and-sovereignty-of-water-life-and-food&catid=23&Itemid=56).   Otavalos actually have the highest standard of living of any indigenous group in South America.  This is due in large part to the artisan market and tourism to the region.  But issues regarding racism and land grabs by the government and mestizo peoples still exist for the indigenous Otavalos (mestizo definition: 1. Originally used in Spanish to refer very specifically to a person of 50% European and 50% Amerindian descent. 2. Nowadays used to refer to any Hispanic person of mixed Amerindian and European descent, regardless of proportions).  

While in Otavalo I hiked nearly every day.  A 25 cent bus ride will take you to multiple villages surrounding the city(usually about 30-45 minutes) and from there multiple hikes to volcanoes, natural lakes, and waterfalls.  I traveled to Otavalo with an American from Portland, Oregon I met in Cali, Colombia a few days prior and was traveling to meet his mother who was staying there a month.  She is a former art teacher and travels there twice a year for a month at a time and volunteers at elementary schools for art instruction and on each visit creates a mural at schools and around the towns containing the students' artwork.  If there is one thing I have learned through traveling in third world nations, it is that there are Americans out there of whom we all should be proud.  Whether the work is religious-based, government funded, or freelancing, there are Americans doing great things.  Oftentimes Americans are viewed internationally as arrogant and ignorant, which is unfortunately true in some cases, but I think you will find most of them within our borders, not volunteering abroad.  I hope that one day everyone has a chance to volunteer in some regard.  More importantly, it doesn't have to be in Ecuador, it can be down the street or across town from where you live.  The following article shows an interesting chart regarding charitable giving by nation, the U.S. ranks 6th according to their estimates: 

(http://www.guardian.co.uk/news/datablog/2010/sep/08/charitable-giving-country)

(A lot of photos, Otavalo is liking walking around in a National Geographic magazine)

My arrival

Map of town at the hostal

Central Plaza with Volcan Imbabura in the background

Indigenous military officer (all men have long hair in a ponytail)

Gameday at the market (Vols crushed by Gators in the second half, I watched online, can't seem to leave college football behind)

Traditional baby carriage

Youngest food stand vendor in the world  (Jordan, my buddy from Portland, and his mom)

BBQ

Saturday animal market, not a good place of visit for vegetarians and PETA members

Animal market

Main market at Plaza de los Ponchos, Imbabura in background

Favorite item at the market, shrunken heads  (fakes unfortunately)

 Jordan and mom at one of the murals at an elementary school

Caldo de Pollo (Chicken Soup, but not your every day Campbell's)








What I pulled out of my chicken soup (2 feet, one throat/neck, one liver, and one mystery organ)

C

Peguche waterfall

 Lago Cuicocha

Natural heart on Volcan Imbabura