Saturday, September 22, 2012

Cali, Colombia

Cali, Colombia is probably most recognized by Americans as the center of the Cali Cartel which controlled the cocaine trade following the fall of Pablo Escobar and the Medellin Cartel.  A fabulous documentary by the ESPN 30 for 30 series documents the influence of the cartels and the drug trade in Colombia in the 1980s and 1990s and their influence on the national sport soccer (futbol).  The series "The Two Escobars" is available on YouTube in 11 parts (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yd5amEEVLgk).  The eventual fall of the Cali Cartel took place as U.S. investment in military training and operations on the new "War on Drugs" challenged the cartel leaders and cartel informants testified and brought evidence showing that corruption and bribes had allowed the cartels to operate under the auspices of the Colombian government.  The Medellin Cartel headed by Pablo Escobar had controlled the majority of the drug trade to North America, the Cali Cartel was fundamental in bringing the drug to Europe in the 1990s and controlled 90% of its distribution to the continent (http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/pages/frontline/shows/drugs/business/inside/colombian.html).

Santiago de Cali or Cali is the third largest city in Colombia with a population of nearly 3 million.  The city is located in western Colombia and has a tropical climate.  The city's existence is due in large part to the agriculture of the surrounding areas.  With plentiful water sources and warm climate, the area produces fruit and vegetables year round.  The climate is also ideal for growing sugar cane which helps explain the higher rate of Afro-Colombians who live in region than are in the more mountainous cities of Bogota and Medellin and their surrounding areas (http://www.zonu.com/fullsize-en/2011-08-16-14304/Afro-Colombian-population-2005.html).  In looking at the map you will see the areas near the Caribbean and Pacific coasts have the highest concentration of black citizens due to the African slaves who were brought to the area by the Spanish to harvest sugar cane.  You can see similarities is the distribution of the African American population of the United States (http://www.censusscope.org/us/map_nhblack.html).  The highest concentration of black citizens is in the southern coastal areas, where the British initially brought slaves from Africa to harvest tobacco, rice, and indigo, and in the western areas of the southeast where slaves were brought by Americans to harvest cotton.


In Cali, as in much of the southern United States, African culture is infused into Latin culture.  The cuisine, dress, visual arts, and especially the music and dance.  Cali is known as the salsa capital of the world.  Salsa originated in the Caribbean and made it's way to South America in the 1920s.  Cali hosts international salsa competitions and salsa music and dance is an integral part of the of the Feria de Cali (festival) held every December starting on Christmas Day (http://www.feriadecali.com/) .  I stayed at the Iguana hostal (http://www.iguana.com.co/) north of the Old Town which offered free salsa lessons Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights.  Knowing salsa is mandatory for a night out in Cali and foreigners with their awkward steps (myself included) are very easily spotted in clubs among the smooth moving locals.  Fear not though, the locals or CaleƱos are more than happy to show you a few steps and to make sure you enjoy your time in Cali.  If you have never seen salsa in action, here is a video that looks nothing at all like myself (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jrCz8VvLdKk).

I had planned to visit Cali for only a few days and stayed for nearly three weeks.  Great people, great entertainment, great food, and great weather.



 Map at the Iguana Hostal warning where not to go


 Sugar cane juice, or liquid tooth cavity in my case


 The old and the new at Catedral San Francisco


 Afternoon chess game


 Military recruitment fair, a little strange as people point guns at their friends and take pictures, or give their 3-4 year olds assault rifles to pose with


Galeria Alameda

 Parque de los Poetas (still using typewriters)


 View from Catedral San Antonio

Fishhead soup


The legendary Mano del Negro (Black Hand) at La Loma de la Cruz artisan market-Legend of a slave killed unjustly haunts the area at night by dragging chains and a hand rises from the ground



Transportation in San Cipriano north of Cali near the Pacific Coast

An unqualified driver